How to Build a Coffee Table with Turned Legs

I began with the four table legs. I could not locate 4 x 4 timbers, so I had to plane and join two 2″ x 4″ x 18″ cherry work pieces. Work on the mating faces and match the grain as close as possible. Lightly clamp the interface of the table leg joint as shown in photo, or the work pieces will skew sideways when clamped. I use the vise and clamp for alignment, and then use 3 – “C” clamps for clamping pressure.

After curing the work pieces, remove excess glue and square off all faces using the jointer and/or table saw. Final trimming of the legs can be undertaken in the planer. Ensure all sides are square. The work piece is too wide for the table saw, so carefully calibrate and set the miter saw to cut both ends. I used a digital caliper set at the back end to ensure all 4 legs are identical in length. Of course, you do not need to use turned legs for the design of this table, they can be left square section with possibly a routed external corner for added interest.

Determine lathe centres by criss-cross scribed lines to corners and use centre punch at intersection.

Some care is required or the leg work piece will run eccentrically when turning. Centre in lathe. Work piece is of considerable cross-section and weight, so ensure stock centres are firmly embedded! The leg pre-turned design dimensions are 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 18″. These can be altered to suit. Measure (from top) 6 1/2″ and scribe a line on all four faces. Undercut all four corners of the leg with fine tooth saw to prevent surface tear-out when using gouge.

Gouge turned area till all flats on surface are removed. Then mark all salient points of the table leg design, i.e. 1/2″ – 4 1/2″ – 2″ then 4 1/2″. Rotate lathe at slow speed, and continue marks around cylindrical periphery.

Since I am going to add a trim to the lower edge of the rails, and since I want to dress the ends with the trim moulding attached, I add 1/16″ to each end i.e. 34 5/8″. I want to reference from the front face for the dowels and that is not possible with the trim installed, so I install Dowelmax and drill the 6 bores first. Reference from the top and front faces of the rail and leg, and drill through guides 1, 2, 4 & 5. Insert index pin through 1st guide and last bore. Then drill through guides 3 & 4.

Note: Since I have added 1/16″ to each end of the rail, I set the drill collar to 1 7/8″.

When drilling of the four rails is complete, I began milling the sections which comprise the bottom trim. These are 8 in total, 4 are 1/4″ x 1 3/8″ x 35″ and 4 are 3/8″ x 1 1/2″ x 35″. Route one corner of four to 1/4″ radius, sand surfaces and glue to lower section of rail.

Second 4 spars are routed 1/4″ radius on two adjacent corners and a step is milled 1/8″ deep. Sand all surfaces and glue (brads) to lower edge as detailed.

After joining the first moulding and before attaching the second, shave a miniscule section off the lower edge of the rail to provide a good square surface for the second moulding.

The foregoing operation i.e. lower trim, can be simplified by the craftsman or eliminated altogether.

I glued the trim sections and used brads for the second sections, obviating extensive clamp use. Make sure the bull nose (second trim) is snug to the face of the first trim, before shooting brads.

After the trim has been added and the glue cured, cut the ends of the rails. I used the table saw sled, and took approx. 1/16″ off each end. Remember all 4 rails have to be virtually identical in length, and the cuts must be absolutely square. Believe me, this saves a lot of aggravation when assembly takes place!

The following picture is a simulated example of how to ensure identical lengths for any project components. This is done using the table saw, sled, fence and a 1 inch spacer.

1. Use sled to cut one end of each rail true
2. Set fence 1 inch greater than required length
3. For each rail set up, position cross cut sled in a pre-determined position
4. Reverse rail and set against 1 inch spacer on fence
5. Remove spacer and make final cross cut

NOTE: The 1 inch spacer must be removed before making the cut.

It would seem an appropriate time to complete the eight joints on the four legs. Set the legs vertically on the workbench, with the joint seam in the same direction. Leave a small gap between for marking the “check marks” and “X” s.

Video Part 2) Drilling the Multiple Dowel Leg to Rail Joints used to Build the Coffee Table Frame

The following video describes the methods used in joining one of the main side rails to the leg using suitable spacers and index pin.

How to Build Coffee Table using Dowelmax Part 2 - Joining the Table Rail to the Leg Dowelmax

If the work piece is bowed to a degreee, the jointer is the first choice to correct this condition.  If not, the procedure can be carried out on the table saw.

Mill the four outer work pieces, 7/8 x 4 1/2 x 46 inches. I cut my pieces from 7″ wide cherry planks. I have found that in some cases when, for example, reducing an eight inch wide work piece to a five inch work piece, stresses are relieved, which can cause the work piece to bow severely. To counteract that I leave 1/4″ extra on the cut. So in this case, I wanted to finish up with 4 1/2″. The initial cut was therefore 4 3/4″.

Turn the board around (same face down) several times taking off approximately 1/32″ each time until the boards are absolutely true.

The design calls for four square bevelled glass panels which slot into the top boards. To accommodate the glass panels, recesses are cut into the upper inside corner of each top board. These measure 1/8″ deep and 1/4″ wide. This can be achieved by router or table saw. The router is quicker, but the table saw, in conjunction with the dado system, is not only a cleaner cut, but more accurate. I chose the latter. The cut is continuous on all four boards.

When I install the completed top over the lower framework, I like an overlap.

To achieve that, I sometimes use the table saw to undercut the lower face. However in this case I want to make the top look thicker (aesthetics), so I am going to add four 1/4″ x 1 7/16″ slats to the lower outer face of the top boards.

These are simply glued in position then the edges are trimmed in the table saw (note) when cutting the four slats, cut an extra piece of the same width. Section that slat into 12 small lengths and attach these to the underside of all four top boards. These are utilized to hold the top boards absolutely level when cutting the miters. Before cutting the miters however, route the top outer edge of all four top boards (as and if required).

Cut the miters. I use the table saw and miter guide for these cuts. The miter guide has an elongated attachment secured to it. The attachment measures roughly 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 14 inches, and provides a solid and stable base for mounting the top boards.

Set the miter guide to exactly 45°. Try two cuts on two mating work pieces. If “out” in a minimal sense, adjust miter guide to suit discrepancy. If the error is larger, split the adjustments between the two miters, otherwise the mating contours of the top boards will not line up!! To ensure that everything is true, make sure all top boards are the same length and the miters are as close to 45° as possible. The process is a bit like chess, easy to play, but difficult to get right.

I found the exact setting on the miter guide to create the almost perfect 90° at say the top left corner. I then repeated that process for the top right corner. Then using these same miter guide settings, I cut two of the four 45° miters. I then assembled the three top boards using two 90° clamp fixtures at the top finished joints. The next step was to ensure the two outer boards were absolutely parallel. To do that, I checked the inside distance top and bottom using the UTG, then adjusted as required using a pipe clamp at approximate mid section.

I then set a straight edge at the lower apex (45°s).

At this point the assumption is that the two lower 45°s right and left are close to perfect, so don’t touch these. Cut the left mitre and check, using the straight edge for guidance. Adjust the miter guide as required until a virtual perfect 90° is achieved. Repeat that process with the right lower joint. Adjust miter guide as necessary until the lower rail mates perfectly.

Carefully number all corners and then drill for accepting multiple dowels.

There are numerous ways to reference Dowelmax and after my first attempt, I decided to change my approach. Rather than referencing from the apex or outer point, I decided to reference Dowelmax from the inner recess of the top work piece.

This procedure allows for more accuracy at the inner glass recess and also obviates the use of the index pin. Clamp Dowelmax and drill through guides 3, 4 and 5.

Video Part 3) Drilling the Multiple Dowel Miter Joints used to Build the Coffee Table Top:

The following video shows me referencing from the apex, or outer point of the joint. I subsequently found it more accurate to reference from the inner recess as indicated in the preceding photograph. The principle is the same in either procedure.

How to Build a Coffee Table using Dowelmax Part 3 - Joining the Mitered Top Dowelmax

Do not proceed before reading this guide: As a consequence of the axial direction of the dowels on the mitred joints, it is essential to begin by gluing two opposing “L” shapes.

While gluing the first two opposing corner joints, dry fit the dowels in the other two opposing joints. Close the whole assembly and clamp square. That method will ensure all four boards are true and square. I have four long clamps. I set two on the floor running parallel. Set the glued assembly on top, lightly clamp, then set two clamps on top, clamping in opposite direction. Tighten all clamps and ensure glued assembly is true and square. Repeat after application of glue to other two mitre joints.

The center underside support rail runs along the underside of the second and third table top glass support rails, as shown in Step 12. The main glass support rail does not use an underside support rail.

Dry fit all legs and rails (using two dowels for each joint). Clamp structure and ensure the assembly is true and square. On two opposing rails, measure from leg to centre of rail, draw vertical dotted line.

From dotted line, measure out 1/2 inch and draw vertical full line.

Disassemble Dowelmax to guide block, add angle bracket. Clamp to work piece referencing to solid line and top of rail. (Ensure guides are centred directly over dotted line). Use 1-1/2 inch dowels and drill 1 inch+ into support rail and 1/2 inch+ into leg rail. Drill through guides 1, 2 and 3.

Note: With 3/4″ stock, adjust drill collar to drill only 5/8″ deep into face of outside rail. Then re-adjust collar, and drill 7/8″ deep into end of inner support rail. (For 1-1/2″ long dowels)

Prepare two boards 7/8 x 4 x 35-1/2 inches. One rail extends full width of top and should butt snugly into glass recess.

Begin with the long support rail; dress the ends until a snug fit is achieved, using the sled if possible. Then undercut the two ends to the point that when inserted, a snug fit is achieved and also the two top boards are level. Turn the board over and cut the two glass recesses (to the same depth as outer boards).

Insert the centre board, align and clamp. Follow the same procedure with the two short boards. Carefully centre the top long board, mark position internally. Remove and glue all surfaces. Install to marks, check and clamp. Repeat with two smaller boards.

My son recently bought me a 6 inch Bosch orbital sander which I love. Use your orbital sander for top, then sand all the edges by hand, paying particular attention to the profile at the corners. Try to avoid cross grain scratching at the corners, or these marks will be accentuated with the application of stain.

My preference is to completely dismantle the dry fitted table and then prepare, stain and finish the various components separately. All pieces are sanded progressively 150 – 220 – 400 grit.

Prepare a mix of shellac and methyl hydrate in the proportion 1:4respectively. Centre leg in lathe, coat liberally with mix and rub in. Finish off with lathe running at slow speed. Leave overnight.

I want a dark, rich colour, but with no blotching, so I apply Dark Walnut gel stain first, to give a good seal coat. Rub in, and remove excess. Rub with grain at flat surface when finished. Finish off with lathe running. Leave overnight.

I used a second coat of Espresso and Dark Walnut mixed in the proportion of 1:1 to enrich and darken the appearance, and finished with third coat of Espresso to produce a darker shade, and a richer appearance.

One further advantage favouring sanding and finishing before assembly; if an error is made (as I did in this case), it is relatively straight forward to sand down the various components and start again.